Simon's pot-au-feu recipe

Literally 'pot on the fire' this is a timeless recipe which dates back to prehistoric times when Lascaux Man, tired of painting all those epic murals, slunk back to the fireside and chucked whatever came to hand into the pot on the fire. Isabelle serves up her famous lentil stewMeat and vegetables, or just a few bones and a handful of herbs or grasses. The French have formalized things a bit since those days but even Toulouse Woman, who is probably today's equivalent, will still not shrink from throwing into the pot whatever seizes her fancy.

Ingredients ( 6 people):

Vegetables: 6 carrots, 4 leeks, 6 little navets (turnips), a parsnip, half a head of celery, half a celeriac, an onion. 6 potatoes cooked separately in their jackets.

Meat: about a kilo of beef chuck or brisket, tied with string. 4 or so marrow bones.

Peppercorns (12) bayleaves (3) garlic cloves (6) sprig of thyme

Isabelle's yard with raw materials on the hoof

Method

There are many people who try and cook all these ingredients more or less separately: this is pointless as the whole idea is to flavour the bouillon as much as possible.
Throw the meat (the chuck or brisket) into a two litres of water in a large heavy cast-iron pot. Bring to the boil and skim the scum that forms two or three times. Let it cook for about two hours. Then add all the other ingredients making sure to tie the veg into handy bundles so that you can fish them out at the end without everything disintegrating. Cook very slowly for at least another two hours.
Then carefully take out the veg and meat with a flat holy spoon (from Lourdes, de préférence) and place them on a warmed serving dish (which you could keep in a coolish oven). Strain the remaining liquid into a soupière (what! you don't have one!) and serve immediately. There are some finicky people who insist on de-greasing this bouillon before serving it ... but if you've spent a long day at the cave-painting you're not going to bother with this.

The vegetables, potatoes (which you can either cook separately or risk disintegration by adding them 30 minutes before eating) meat and marrow bones are then presented as the second course, traditionally accompanied with a couple of different kinds of mustard, sea salt (or fleur de sel if you can find it), cornichons, aïoli, mild chutney and so on.

Serve with a Côtes de Rhône, a Buzet or even a Cahors.

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